For the past two weeks I've been in a small city in Northern Tanzania called Babati. We left Arusha to come here for our orientation training. It's halfway between Arusha and Dodoma (the capital) and for over half the drive we were on a dirt freeway. The lack of infrastructure here amazes me. And Tanzania is one of the more developed African nations. It was so weird that a main road to their capital wasn't paved! It's amazing the things we take for granted.
While here we've gotten to know our Tanzanian teaching partners very well. It's so cool to talk to them about Tanzania and they are very interested in learning about the US as well. Things I've discovered: They've never seen sidewalks meant for pedestrians, the average monthly income of a teacher is $300 dollars. A "well off" doctor makes between $1200-1500 a month. The rent I pay in Seattle astounds them; they thought I meant for a year instead of a month. Most of them have never been outside Tanzania and I guess it would be really hard to when you're only making $300 a month. A ticket to the US is like six months of work for them. And most of them have several "girlfriends" or "boyfriends" although I couldn't quite figure out if they meant what I thought or if that was just how they referred to friends. When I told them about my boyfriend at home they asked about his other girlfriends and didn't really understand that he had no other ones... When I told them that he only loves me they go, "Oh that's what you think..." I guess it's just part of their culture.
We have a mama that cooks for us while we are at orientation. Her name is Mama Sia. It isn't her first name but mamas take the name of their first born daughter. She is one hell of a gal. She's larger than life and has a personality that's bigger than she is. Her husband left her so she is mad at men but she loves us kids! She takes care of us while we are here. She owns two restaurants in Babati and is kind of the queen bee around here. We all love her. She makes about five different meals that she rotates all of them consisting of beans, mchicha (steamed spinach) and some sort of starch, usually rice. We had this thing called ugali, which everyone hated. It's basically water and flour that makes a dough like substance. Absolutely flavorless. Hopefully my homestay mama won't make it much. It's weird because they seem to have all of the things we have at home: vegetables, livestock, etc but they don't add things like grilled onions to food or have cheese or yogurt. I guess those things require lots of equipment and pasteurization. Which aren't exactly easy to come by out here. I just really am starting to miss food from home. I'm so sick of beans and rice I can't even tell you. The one saving grace is that they make a lot of "chips" here which are french fries and they make this awesome thing called chips myie which is like an omelette with potato in it mmmmm... pretty much the only yummy thing we can find here.
There's a lake near the city that's full of hippos. We go to dinner near the water and they pop up every now and then to take a breath. There's even a baby one that roams around the streets at night and is SO cute. I've seen him three times already cruising down the road. One night at dinner there was a guy with a canoe (actually a hollowed out log of cedar it smelled like) that was letting us take rides out on the lake. It was cool to be so close to the water and see the hippos swimming around and opening their mouth. We didn't get close good thing or I probably would have hyperventilated haha. They're actually quite scary for as cute as they are.
We've been doing a lot of lesson planning and trying to factor in life skills with our teachings. It's been difficult because I've never done this kind of thing before but everyone seems to think I've been doing a great job. Instead of just giving them information we are trying to arm them with the skills necessary to enact the behavior change we want them to do, for example: choose an ABC (abstinence, be faithful, condom) to have safe sex, get tested, or reduce stigma. It seems like it will be a really effective way to teach the kids and community groups.
That being said, all of us are really getting tired of orientation. We are all very ready to get out into the villages tomorrow and start teaching! Finally being able to put to use all the things we've been practicing. We're very excited. Megan and I got put in the same homestay so we'll be living together and teaching together.
Kwahedi!
Chelsea
Monday, August 3, 2009
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Arusha, Tanzania
We went on a tour of Arusha and it is actually a pretty bustling city. There weren't very many tourists like everyone said there would be but that's probably because it's the down season. Most of the animals in the Serengeti have migrated north to Maasai Mara NP in Kenya because it's the dry season. While we were walking around with Christina we bumped into a guy named Rogers. He's a friend of SIC's and walked around with us. We asked him if he knew where the camel rides were that we had heard about and he actually did! He offered to take us there because it was a pretty far drive from the center of town and it was on the daladalas, which can be a little confusing if you haven't taken them a lot or don't speak Swahili. We found the camels and for 1000 Tsh (a little less than a dollar) we got to ride them around. It was short but was a really fun experience. They are really scary to get on and off! I have a video of it and if I ever get decent internet access I will definitely post it. Because he offered to take us all the way there Megan and I got Rogers a ride too; he had never been on one before!
After the camels he took us to the Maasai trading market that was next door. He is Maasai so he knew all the people there. There were goats, chickens, donkeys and cows running around a big open area that you could trade or buy. I don't think many "wazungu" (the slang term they call us "white people") venture out here because they seemed absolutely shocked to be seeing us there. We caused quite the commotion when we had Rogers take our picture and everyone else wanted to be in the photos too and then see them on the screen. It's amazing how something that we take for granted in the states is such an exciting item here. All the men kept touching my hair too which was weird but it's because most of the women shave their heads here. Because my hair is so long and thick they were very interested in it.
Megan and I were ready for lunch and we were craving burgers. We had heard about this amazing burger place and we weren't dissappointed. It definitely wasn't an american burger though. Everything on it were things that I had never had on a burger. But I actually LOVE the ketchup here surprisingly. It's a little like spaghettio sauce. Bright read and really thin. But it actually tastes more like a tomato sauce than ketchup at home.
The next day in Arusha, it was our first day of the program. We had a health and safety talk at the SIC headquarters there and then were free the rest of the day. Megan and I looked everywhere for a market to buy gifts but couldn't find anything. All we have seen so far is lots of second hand clothes for sale; nothing I can bring home for friends and family. Hopefully I find something eventually though. We did find a little restaurant with delicious curry and CHOCOLATE CAKE! Yum.
We had opening dinner later that night at a really fabulous Chinese restaurant. Meg is Chinese and she was SO happy. She said it was actually pretty good and authentic. We met all the Tanzanian teaching partners (they help us lesson plan and translate for us) and they seem really great. I'm excited to get started!
The final day in Arusha our whole group went on a hike. It was supposed to be an "easy" hike up through the foothills of Mt. Meru and end at a waterfall near a creek. It ended at the waterfall but it was anything but easy. I seriously wanted to turn around every step of the way but I had no idea how to get back so I had no choice haha. The first half was all uphill and really dusty. At least it wasn't too hot though it was nice and overcast. The last part of the hike was downhill and by downhill I mean straight down. I pretty much slid the whole way on my butt and got very dirty. Then we walked up the creek and saw monkeys in the trees and crab and frogs in the creek. It was very pretty and really cool. The waterfall at the end was pretty and we had lunch there. The only thing that dampened the mood was realizing we were going to have to go back up that muddy hill that I could barely get down in the first place! Somehow we managed to get up it on all fours and started the descent down back to Arusha. On the way down we passed a bunch of kids running around with GIANT machetes and for a second each time I saw them I would flinch because it was so scary seeing them swing them around at me! Flora (another girl working with SIC) and I also got rocks thrown at us by little children that asked us for money. As we started running from them their mom came out and started screaming at them haha little children! Don't mess with the Mazungus!
The dinner they took us to that night was amazing. By far the best food we've had the whole trip. We went to a restaurant called Kahn's and it was Indian food. We had tons of Naan, the best BBQ chicken I've had in my whole life (Not an exaggeration!) and tons of yummy sauces and shiskabobs. We were in the Muslim area of Arusha and there was a funeral nearby so it was really interesting to see the process right next to us. Also an interesting point is that the restaurant didn't serve alcohol because of their religion. We leave tomorrow morning for Babati. Wish me luck it's a dirt road the whole way!
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Leaving Zanzibar; Heading to Arusha
WORST. BOAT RIDE. EVER. We headed back to the mainland today and the ferry ride was horrible. It was bad on the way there but the way back was so much worse. We even sat outside and still got sick. After I filled up my puke bag I had to run on the rocking boat over to the side to finish getting sick. Even the locals were puking! The three worst hours of my life.
The day didn't start off so bad though. We woke up early and went to the Darajani market for awhile and I got some good pictures of the locals. It was interesting seeing hanging animal carcasses next to vegatable stands and tee shirt vendors. Very weird and something you definitely wouldn't see back home.
Once we got to Dar we hopped in a cab and went to the YMCA hostel. We wandered around town looking for something to eat - which was hard because everything is closed on Sundays but we managed to find one. But it was filled with a bunch of locals having some sort of party! They all looked at us funny (which is starting to become the norm) but the kids were so curious! They would look and peek around corners and then wave and run away; so cute.
The next morning we woke up at 6am to catch a bus to Arusha. We got to the bus station at 6:30 expecting to load at 7 and leave at 7:30. Nope nothing happened until 8 and we were on our way at 8:30. On the way we would stop like every half hour so that vendors could come up to the windows and sell us things like oranges, cashews, drinks and various other odd items. Meg and I got the cashews which were good but it was the most bizarre thing haggling for food out a window. And if you even looked at them they would swarm your window and chase the bus out of the stop trying to get you to buy something. Then the bus broke down. Not once, but twice. They had the engine taken apart on the side of the road and were blocking the whole north bound route of a major highway. Pretty crazy. In all the trip took 12 hours when it was supposed to take 8. Oh well I guess that's what happens in Africa.
When we got to the bus station finally we were overwhelmed by taxi drivers trying to get our business. Luckily, Dan (our manager) and Christina (team leader) were waiting to pick us up so that we didn't have to deal with them. They were so insistant that we couldn't even get off the bus! They were blocking the exit and finally the bus driver screamed at all of them to get out of the way. It was so crazy. Then when we headed off with Dan they yelled at him for taking their business.
We dropped our stuff off at the Centre house hostel and went to eat. I had chicken and rice which was yummy. Hopefully I'll finally find some Tanzanian food to eat! So far it's all be Indian or things I'd have at home.
The day didn't start off so bad though. We woke up early and went to the Darajani market for awhile and I got some good pictures of the locals. It was interesting seeing hanging animal carcasses next to vegatable stands and tee shirt vendors. Very weird and something you definitely wouldn't see back home.
Once we got to Dar we hopped in a cab and went to the YMCA hostel. We wandered around town looking for something to eat - which was hard because everything is closed on Sundays but we managed to find one. But it was filled with a bunch of locals having some sort of party! They all looked at us funny (which is starting to become the norm) but the kids were so curious! They would look and peek around corners and then wave and run away; so cute.
The next morning we woke up at 6am to catch a bus to Arusha. We got to the bus station at 6:30 expecting to load at 7 and leave at 7:30. Nope nothing happened until 8 and we were on our way at 8:30. On the way we would stop like every half hour so that vendors could come up to the windows and sell us things like oranges, cashews, drinks and various other odd items. Meg and I got the cashews which were good but it was the most bizarre thing haggling for food out a window. And if you even looked at them they would swarm your window and chase the bus out of the stop trying to get you to buy something. Then the bus broke down. Not once, but twice. They had the engine taken apart on the side of the road and were blocking the whole north bound route of a major highway. Pretty crazy. In all the trip took 12 hours when it was supposed to take 8. Oh well I guess that's what happens in Africa.
When we got to the bus station finally we were overwhelmed by taxi drivers trying to get our business. Luckily, Dan (our manager) and Christina (team leader) were waiting to pick us up so that we didn't have to deal with them. They were so insistant that we couldn't even get off the bus! They were blocking the exit and finally the bus driver screamed at all of them to get out of the way. It was so crazy. Then when we headed off with Dan they yelled at him for taking their business.
We dropped our stuff off at the Centre house hostel and went to eat. I had chicken and rice which was yummy. Hopefully I'll finally find some Tanzanian food to eat! So far it's all be Indian or things I'd have at home.
Zanzibar Island
People are so genuinely nice here. Even if they are trying to sell you things they are doing it because they are seizing an opportunity to make money in an area where it is really hard to do so. Most people will make sure you get where you're trying to go with no strings attached. Yea there are the occasional people who want you to pay them for their services but that's usually not the case.
The first morning in Zanzibar we woke up not really knowing what we were going to do. We had already explored stone town and it was a lot smaller than I thought it would be. So we had breakfast at our hostel and met these two ladies that had been working as missionaries in Dodoma. They told us they were headed to Paje beach on the east coast of the island and we should tag along. So we split a cab with them and headed out.
On the drive there we went through a monkey sanctuary and there were cute Colobus monkeys in the trees on the side of the road. Unfortunately I only got a really quick terrible photo of them because you aren't allowed to stop on the road for fear of poaching the almost extinct animals. We also were stopped a lot at "polisi" checkpoints. The driver would argue with them for a bit before speeding away, the whole time we were oblivious to what was going on. We asked him later and I guess they try to get bribes from the taxi drivers to pass. Good thing ours was so tough; he just continued on his way and they didn't follow.
Paje was beautiful. There wasn't much to do there besides lounge around on the beach so Meg and I layed out our towels and sunbathed. The sun is so strong here we cooked in less than an hour and a half. Didn't swim much either because there was too much seaweed everywhere and it freaked me out haha. When we were walking down the beach we saw a group of young girls digging shells out of the sand. They got a kick out of cameras and wanted us to take a million photos of them. They were so cute and really sweet. After, we had a lovely lunch on the beach and lounged around on the hammocks and then made our way back to town.
At night on Zanzibar it POURS. We had switched hostels because ours didn't have rooms for the last two nights we were there and that night it rained so hard it woke both Meg and me up. It sounded like the sky was falling it was nuts.
The time switch has been really hard on this trip; not really sure why but I wake up multiple times during the night and wake up SO early :( I usually don't have much of a problem getting used to it but for some reason it's been tough. Hopefully that by the time I get to the villages I'll be better.
The next day we decided to be adventurous and take a daladala to the North coast beaches which are basically pickup trucks with benches in the back where everyone squishes together. They are also VERY inexpensive. We walked to the daladala station and were unsure exactly which one to take but they pointed us in the right direction. We hopped in the back; completely full of locals and started on our way. There are a few stops on the journey where people hop on and off. At one point on the way back from the beach we had 24 people in the back!
Nungwi beach was even more beautiful than Paje had been! Perfect white sand with gorgeous turquoise waters. We didn't bring swimsuits but we had to swim. So we wandered in to town and found swimsuits so that we could. The water was the perfect temperature and it was perfectly clear. I actually SWAM which I don't do in the ocean. Usually I'm too scared of animals but it was so amazing. Just when I was getting comfortable though Megan screamed and we ran out of the water. She had been stung by a jellyfish. Luckily it was just a little one so the sting went away quickly. But we didn't get back into the water again. We went to a little restaurant on the water and had a late lunch then caught the daladala back to town.
Our last night we wanted to go to the Foradhani gardens again since it was so good and cheap. We got everything: Coconuts $.50; Meat skewers and "chips" (french fries) $.90; and chocolate pizza $1.50. The chocolate pizzas were the same ones I used to get in Thailand and thought I'd never get again! They were amazing. Definitely going to miss this place when we leave.
Chelsea
The first morning in Zanzibar we woke up not really knowing what we were going to do. We had already explored stone town and it was a lot smaller than I thought it would be. So we had breakfast at our hostel and met these two ladies that had been working as missionaries in Dodoma. They told us they were headed to Paje beach on the east coast of the island and we should tag along. So we split a cab with them and headed out.
On the drive there we went through a monkey sanctuary and there were cute Colobus monkeys in the trees on the side of the road. Unfortunately I only got a really quick terrible photo of them because you aren't allowed to stop on the road for fear of poaching the almost extinct animals. We also were stopped a lot at "polisi" checkpoints. The driver would argue with them for a bit before speeding away, the whole time we were oblivious to what was going on. We asked him later and I guess they try to get bribes from the taxi drivers to pass. Good thing ours was so tough; he just continued on his way and they didn't follow.
Paje was beautiful. There wasn't much to do there besides lounge around on the beach so Meg and I layed out our towels and sunbathed. The sun is so strong here we cooked in less than an hour and a half. Didn't swim much either because there was too much seaweed everywhere and it freaked me out haha. When we were walking down the beach we saw a group of young girls digging shells out of the sand. They got a kick out of cameras and wanted us to take a million photos of them. They were so cute and really sweet. After, we had a lovely lunch on the beach and lounged around on the hammocks and then made our way back to town.
At night on Zanzibar it POURS. We had switched hostels because ours didn't have rooms for the last two nights we were there and that night it rained so hard it woke both Meg and me up. It sounded like the sky was falling it was nuts.
The time switch has been really hard on this trip; not really sure why but I wake up multiple times during the night and wake up SO early :( I usually don't have much of a problem getting used to it but for some reason it's been tough. Hopefully that by the time I get to the villages I'll be better.
The next day we decided to be adventurous and take a daladala to the North coast beaches which are basically pickup trucks with benches in the back where everyone squishes together. They are also VERY inexpensive. We walked to the daladala station and were unsure exactly which one to take but they pointed us in the right direction. We hopped in the back; completely full of locals and started on our way. There are a few stops on the journey where people hop on and off. At one point on the way back from the beach we had 24 people in the back!
Nungwi beach was even more beautiful than Paje had been! Perfect white sand with gorgeous turquoise waters. We didn't bring swimsuits but we had to swim. So we wandered in to town and found swimsuits so that we could. The water was the perfect temperature and it was perfectly clear. I actually SWAM which I don't do in the ocean. Usually I'm too scared of animals but it was so amazing. Just when I was getting comfortable though Megan screamed and we ran out of the water. She had been stung by a jellyfish. Luckily it was just a little one so the sting went away quickly. But we didn't get back into the water again. We went to a little restaurant on the water and had a late lunch then caught the daladala back to town.
Our last night we wanted to go to the Foradhani gardens again since it was so good and cheap. We got everything: Coconuts $.50; Meat skewers and "chips" (french fries) $.90; and chocolate pizza $1.50. The chocolate pizzas were the same ones I used to get in Thailand and thought I'd never get again! They were amazing. Definitely going to miss this place when we leave.
Chelsea
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Day Two of our Tranfser to Paradise
Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania - Zanzibar Town, Zanzibar
My travel buddy, Megan (sorry we're greasy, just off the plane)
My travel buddy, Megan (sorry we're greasy, just off the plane)Mosquitos here are nuts. I've done everything possible: malarone, 100% deet bug spray, and treated bug nets yet they're still getting me! They are super bugs...
Megan and I had a long day today. We woke up early and explored the area around our hotel. From the drive in last night it looked a lot scarier than it did today. However, I have yet to see a tourist so I feel very alone and out of place. Especially when all the locals stare at you like you're an alien...
The street our hotel was on
Our taxi picked us up at 9 and we headed to the ferry terminal. Our driver was crazy! There was a traffic jam so he went over on a parallel side street and followed that until it was backed up too. Then he reversed a bit down the highway (with people behind us, mind you), honking the whole way until we came to a clearing with a foot and a half tall cement barrier blocking the two roads. What does he do? Drive over it, bottoming out his little car the entire way across it. The rest of the trip smelt like burnt oil so I'm sure he ruptured something...
I didn't realize how hectic it is when trying to buy a ferry ticket. I imagined it something like the Seattle ferries with one office where you buy the tickets, etc. Nope. There are a bunch of different ferry companies and each has different times (that they don't tell you) so you have to try to pick the one that's leaving the soonest. We picked Seabus which acording to them loaded at ten and left at eleven. Ten-thirty rolls around and nothing. By the way, don't let "porters" take your bags for you. They won't tell you how much right away and you assume 2-5 dollars and then demand 30... UGH. Finally a ferry arrives and we try to board and are told it's the wrong one. Ours is the next one. So we wait ANOTHER hour and ANOTHER ferry and finally it's our turn. We board and take a seat. As soon as we pull out of the dock I realize another thing about these ferries: they sway. I immediately realize I'm going to be sick; it's a two hour ferry ride. They let us go outside and I sit on the bow. It starts to feel better and it turned out to be quite a pretty trip.
Zanzibar - So beautiful!
We unloaded off the ferry, caught a taxi, and headed to our guesthouse of choice, the Jambo Inn. We were so lucky and got the last available room for the night. We explored Stone town and went into a cathedral used during the slave auctions. We actually went into the holding cells and they were so damp, dark and cramped that I don't know how anyone could have lived down there.
After that we set out to find the beach. We found A beach, but not really
It got dark really quickly so we figured we should head back to the room... it was a long walk and by the time we got back it was pitch black, but we made it!
Chelsea
First Impressions
Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania
So I have finally arrived in Africa. Everyone told me how shocked I would be once here, how "you won't understand untill you see if for yourself." In all honesty I didn't really believe them. I feel like a "seasoned traveller," I've been to third world countries before, but I really was shocked. I thought for sure I could handle it, but now I'm not too sure...
We flew into Dar airport and it doesn't seem like an international airport by any standards... very weird. We walked down stairs and were stopped at a gate by police. We had to fill out forms saying we didn't have swine flu and then proceeded to customs. We showed them our faxed copies of our residence visas (which we were told would be fine to get in the country) and they looked at us like they had no idea what we were doing. The main officer came over and goes, "I don't know what to do with this. Sit here." Megan and I just sit and go oh shoot what are we going to do?! Finally he comes back after like half an hour and tells us we are ok. Then my stupid passport won't scan in the machine. I'm sitting there thinking I'm not going to be able to leave the airport! But finally the guy just shrugs and sends me on my way. Some security... but at least we're finally here! Our taxi driver is waiting with a sign with my name on it just like in the movies (I've always wanted that to happen) and we head to our hotel. It's late so we just lay down and try to sleep.
My family at the airport saying goodbye :(
Chelsea
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
6 days to go...
I'm nervous. Not to fly, my flight isn't too long. It's only 22 hours and luckily I've been on enough of the that I don't get scared (knock on wood). I'm nervous about leaving home. I'm going to miss everyone so much: my family, my friends, my boyfriend and my little baby puppy, Eva. It's going to be really hard being away from everyone I love for such a long time and the realization of what I am doing is starting to catch up with me. I don't want to be gone for three months. I don't want to not be able to talk on the phone and see people in person that I'm used to seeing everyday. I don't want my puppy to forget about me.
Anyone have tips on how to make the loneliness and homesickness go away? The closer I get to leaving the more I'm wondering why in the world am I doing this to myself!?
My best friend
My Baby Puppy
Hopefully I'll be so busy over there that I won't have much time to think about home...
Chelsea
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